John R. Harvey
E-mail:ahazueras@aol.com
The cleaning of antique swords is one of the most
contentious issues amongst those bitten by the bug. At the same time, it is
probably fair to say that more damage is done to those weapons remaining in
private ownership by over-cleaning, than by any other cause. The new collector
often has a vision of rows of bright blades on his walls, forgetting that most
blades have not been on a parade ground for over 100 years. After a few years
collecting, the realization dawns that some pieces are just so rare, that they
are acceptable in just about any condition, and from that point condition
becomes less important than the acquisition of interesting pieces. Of about
200 odd pieces in my own collection, few have been restored, and none by my
choice, though all have been preserved. Give me an interesting grotty sword,
battered and without scabbard, with an interesting provenance any day than the
same sword in mint condition, which has been a parade ground queen. I think
what I am trying to say is, that although condition is important, there are
other aspects to be considered, which are all too often overshadowed, by an
obsession with shininess.
Let's assume that you have just bought a new sword for
your collection. For arguments sake, let's assume also that the sword that you
have purchased is a Regulation -"Pattern"- British Officer's sword,
made around the turn of the century. It will normally have an intricately
acid-etched blade, replete with information that, with experience will tell
you a great deal about the sword. The grips will be of fishskin or leather,
over wood, and bound with silver or copper wire. The guard will be steel or
brass, the former being perhaps plated. Finally, there is a scabbard of either
steel, or leather on wood, which might have brass or steel mounts. There are
thus a number of different materials to consider, all with different
properties, and all requiring their own specific treatment. Let's take 'em
individually, but first some general tips.
Stripping: this is a practice which is best left either
to the expert, or applied as an erotic exercise, outside the current field.
The only stripping needed, is to remove the leather washer ("buff
piece") which sits over the blade to protect and seal the sheathed blade
against the scabbard locket. If it is sound and healthy looking, slip it off;
if it is pale buff leather, soak and wash in detergent, you can also bleach it
if needed. Dab dry, and place in a warm place for 24 hours, and then apply a
light lubricating oil to it liberally. The sword knot, can sometimes also be
removed. They are however, often hard and badly worn, in which case leave well
alone. Note how it is wound and carefully loosen. Some knots were woven
directly through the sword slit in the guard, and will not remove. If the knot
is leather, then see the bit about leather care, if bullion, a gentle cleaning
with soap and a soft toothbrush is about all that is possible. The blade is
next. The original etching was applied by laying a wax leaf on the polished
blade, warming gently and applying acid, either by immersing the entire,
masked blade in a bath, up to the shoulder, or by repeated applications of
acid wiped over the perforated wax protection. The metal surface produced
under the relief thus had a white or grey frosted finish, depending on the
acid used. No amount of elbow grease, grinding wheels, shot blasting or emery
cloth is ever going to repair a damaged decorative panel. Go to work thusly:
use a green woven non-metallic nylon pan scourer , apply a generous squirt of
washing up liquid, and work in an equally liberal portion of elbow grease.
What you are going to do is to remove specks of rust scale and loose
encrustations of oxide and dirt from the blade, and from the edges of the
decoration. Anything that will not succumb to this treatment, you are going to
have to learn to live with. The hilt is next; first clean the guard inside and
out, using a toothbrush with the same hi-tech washing up liquid, followed by
the pan scourer. Using a soft toothbrush and liquid soap, then gently clean
the fishskin, if it has been covered in dirt or brass polish. This should also
give a dull sheen to the wire wrapping. Dry immediately, (leaving wet may
cause the skin to wrinkle, as the glue securing it to the wooden former breaks
down) and place in a warm place. When the sword is thoroughly dry, and all
moisture that has seeped into the hilt has been banished, spray the blade with
a good quality gun cleaning solvent (I am currently using American
"G96" which is excellent), ensuring that all blade surfaces are
liberally covered. I normally then leave 'em for 24 hours, before rubbing in a
thin layer of oil; many collectors use a silicon furniture spray or wax, which
also seems to work well, does not acquire dust, as oil does, and protects from
the sweaty fingers of all the Ooooers and Aaaahers who delight in dragging
their hands over steel. Actually, a nice dollop of oil on uncle Fred's new
jacket is just as efficacious, though perhaps slightly antisocial, though will
stain both wall coverings and the sweaty fingered impartially.
The Scabbard then needs to be treated. When this was
made, the wood former, or, in the case of steel ones, the lining, were treated
by impregnation with, usually, paraffin wax. Trying to remove accumulated dirt
and grease from the inside of the scabbard so that it does not mark your newly
cleaned blade is doomed to failure, unless you really know what you are doing.
Leave therefore well alone. Steel scabbard bodies and mounts, are best cleaned
as suggested for the blade, though sometimes a gentle application of max 000
gauge steel wool can be needed, though use as little as possible. The leather
scabbard body would, in service, have been polished using Kiwi dark tan (if
brown), or black, wax boot polish. Use a shoe brush to work it into the scuffs
and seams, and then spit polish it like your full dress/interview shoes, which
should keep you occupied for an hour or two.
Brasswork: If you have ever seen an old Royal Naval
sword that has been cherished by a seafaring family as a memento of a loved
one, then you will get my point. Each time you use a brass polish to produce
that lovely sparkling warm glow, remember that you are abrading the metal, as
well as plastering the muck all over the delicate fish skin of the grips. Do
this for any period of time, and the relief of the hilt will be ruined. If the
brass has a brown accretion, then remove it, if you must, using the same
method as for the blade, and then treat with silicon furniture wax. On no
account should you use brass lacquer. Most brass hilts in British service were
gilded anyway, and scouring will effectively remove any gold still present.
"Blue-and-gilt" blades: Ignore everything I
have written. Wipe with an acid solvent, i.e., your trusty bore cleaner to
neutralize any active rust, and show the blade to someone who can give you
individual advice.
Ask an expert. There are as many self opinionated self styled experts in this
area as in any other, and they occur in the most amazing places. Britain's
self styled premier sword cutler (perhaps they are the only ones - in which
case the statement is true!) have done a number of "restorations"
that I have seen on a 1912 cav. and a pair of Victorian ivory hilted mamelukes,
by grinding down the blades to a mirror finish, and then nickel plating them;
an act of unbridled vandalism, that effectively reduced the value by some 60%,
although they did look "pretty" to the ignorant. For money, anything
is possible, and you may, for a small fortune, have the same people,
completely re-etch the blade, or else use the same money, and buy four perfect
standard swords.
Devil's advocate and sword restoration, or things that
make me run screaming. Good swords are not cheap, and your investment needs to
be protected by proper care. One day, you, or your relatives will inevitably
need to come to some old cynic like me in order to cash in the investment; the
following is what my thought processes will be:
1. Wrong..right..wrong.. right. Any non-original major parts
(excluding, obviously, knots, tassles, linings and wigs on Scottish swords)
and I won't take a second look. Better an incomplete, original than a
mish-mash of fake and real.
2. Screws and peining: removing old screws and hilts from swords, throats
from scabbard lockets, etc, leaves traces every time, unless you are very
skilled. Any signs of disturbance - jaw marks from pliers/vice on the pommel
button, or screwdriver marks on throat screws; a gap between backstrap and
grips, from re-peining the tang or whatever, and your cherished and once
valuable sword becomes a "put-together" or composite weapon.
"And, lo, there was wailing, and gnashing of teeth"
3. The Value of the sword will have been enhanced if you have followed the
steps detailed, and present an honest clean weapon, without repairs. A nice,
old dark patina is attractive, and if I am faced with a 200 year old sword
which is mirror bright, you may be asking gold, but will be offered peanuts.
Your reaction will be as in para 2!
4. A good sword, from a knowledgeable dealer will always command a high
price. Consequently, when selling, it will pay you to go to someone who
specializes in this area, and has been handling swords for many years, thus
establishing a reputation for himself. He will not be the cheapest to buy
from, because he is paying a premium for quality, and this is why you will
consequently do best when selling. Conversely, should he not wish to buy your
swords, he will usually redirect you.
If you are in anyway unsure, then leave well alone!
Repeat, more damage is done by cleaning, than neglect. Oiling or waxing a fine
blade never caused any problems that I know of, and a good sword will increase
in value any way.
If the sword that you have bought is dirty and unkempt,
then assess it's age, and you will see that it has probably survived, with but
normal care, remarkably well. It was probably originally purchased for use,
and as a badge of honour. The technology of war may have progressed (?) with
the advent of the guided missile, but the underlying social values of which
the sword is an expression can only be bettered by adherents of obscure
esoteric arts. You are the legal owner of your sword, but try to bear in mind
that you are the corporeal and transitory caretaker, and have a duty to
posterity! (oooooooh!)
A simple and cheap way to help keep your swords from
deterioration is to keep a pair of cheap cotton gloves handy. When you see
your visitor's hands begin to twitch, ask 'em to put the gloves on!
Fakes, repros, replicas, recreations, etc: I find these
particularly loathsome in any context, perhaps excluding some of the early
Victorian efforts. They are made on a basis of customer demand, and can be
produced on an industrial scale. With my dinosaur attitudes, I therefore fail
to see how they can be collectable, as they are devoid of intrinsic value.
They become ipso facto fraudulent, when, at some time in their lives they are
passed off as the real thing, nearly always, amazingly, by dealers who
"are not sure", or "know nothing about swords" (eBay type
cit: "I know nothing about such things, but I have been told by General
Custer's great grandma/ stuffed canary, that it was worn by him at the battle
of the Little Bighorn, when he defeated Napoleon..). Mixed in with a
collection, they devalue the genuine pieces; mixed in to a dealers stock they
devalue the dealer as well!
Literature: I am often being asked about suitable books
on British Swords. There is really no one book that covers the subject,
however, here are a few:
Brian Robson: "Swords of the British Army: the
Regulation Patterns, 1788-1914." Well-written and authoritative
work, with good illustrations and based on material in National collections,
including the National Army Museum, and the Pattern Room. Fairly reliable, and
the current "bible" of the subject. Essential. Ignores the Indian
and Colonial side of British swords with an indifference one normally only
associates with the Politically Correct, but presumably here from limitations
of physical, not mental space.
Commander W. E. Annis & P.G.W. May "Swords for Sea
Service" Two vols. H,M.S.O. Quite scarce, and pricey when found;
essential and vast catalogue of Sword Cutlers and Retailers, with several
vital pages listing Proof slugs, which are essential to have with all military
swords. Needs updating badly, as some of the information is incorrect; but in
fairness, the authors had little enough to go on when the book was researched.
Excellent illustrations in Vol. II. Never far from my elbow.
John Wilkinson Latham: "British Cut and Thrust Weapons."
Covers a lot of ground, but is good on court and quasi-military swords, and
also some of the service patterns.
F. Wilkinson Latham: "British Military Swords." Largely overshadowed by "Robson"; good general guide, but much space
given to the author's hobby horses, such as the "Great Sword
Scandal" (which proved the financial making of the family firm). A large
amount of propaganda related to the excellence of Wilkies, which the sword
fraternity have swallowed, hook, line and sinker, and amazingly, never been
questioned.
There are a great number of publications by the same
author, "Swords", "Swords and daggers", "Swords in
Colour" and "History of Swords and Bayonets" They largely use
the same collection of moth eared pictures, incorporate similar tracts of
text, and were obviously designed as a commercial venture.
Where to buy swords: Many of the main dealers sell on a
regular basis on eBay (www.ebay.com - if there is anyone out there who has not
yet been initiated) The rule is -caveat emptor, as there are as many cowboys
as real dealers, and ebay refuses to police their site except for removing toy
nazi soldiers and fighting knives with hand guards. If you have read the
above, you will know what to look for; scratch marks, lifted backstraps,
repairs etc. Fakes are alarmingly good nowadays, and not always evident with
digital photography, so insist on the seller sending you images, if those on
the auction are fuzzy or remote. If the seller is unknown to me, I will always
write to him first, to ascertain if he will give a refund if I am
dissatisfied. Avoid "all sales are final" type auctions like the
plague, which, generally, they are. If there is a historical provenance, ask
for proof. Third party assurances from little old ladies are just not on,
unless you are a gullible millionaire with a psychotically philanthropic
attitude to internet lowlife. By looking at the seller's feedback, you will
also get a fair insight into how past transactions have been perceived by
customers, particularly where there are repeat transactions. A huge
marketplace, with lots of bargains between the minefields. Needless to say,
you will find me there as "Mikerivers1"!!
Here are a few more to investigate:
http://www.oldswords.com/
http://swordforum.com/antique/
http://www.antiqueswords.com/
Finally, enjoy collecting, whether you are buying
trooper's sabres, or Napoleonic blue-and-gilt. It is a friendly market place
for the most part, and a deeply satisfying hobby whether your budget is a few
hundred or a few thousand, for you have become bitten by that most profound
expression of our culture -
the sword!
P.S. In course of preparation is another essay, entitled "The sword
collector and his marital relationship - an examination of tension, with some
notes on diplomacy and fiscal management"
